Malay Mail • 13th September 2026

Enjoy a satisfying plate of ‘char kuey teow’ from Pei Yin Char Kuey Teow at 111 Bee Fatt Restaurant, Damansara Utama 

PETALING JAYA, Sep 13 — In this line of work, I get all sorts of tips in all shapes and sizes. Over drinks with a friend. Chatting with my aunt(ies). Being sent a zoomed-in screenshot of my friend’s colleague’s boyfriend’s sister’s Instagram story — you know, the sort of boots-on-the-ground journalism we’ve come to expect in our time.In a first, I was tipped off to a char kuey teow stall after my parents tried it at a birthday party. It was a grand affair — the sort with themed costumes and besp...

Malay Mail • 11th September 2026

Sun Kar Hee Restaurant in Taman Kok Lian serves up seafood delight with their ‘pao fan’

KUALA LUMPUR, Sep 11 — The first time I tried pao fan — a classic Teochew dish of rice submerged in a pork or seafood broth, usually topped with crispy rice — it unlocked something in me. Growing up, I did enjoy my rice sufficiently lubricated, but submerging it entirely in broth felt a touch too close to congee territory, which I hated. I wanted banjir, not Guantanamo. Any concerns about rice soaked to a soggy, mushy death in coloured water were immediately quelled by the first mouthful. My first...

Malay Mail • 6th September 2026

Root House by gēn, Penang: Chef Johnson Wong’s plan to evolve Malaysian-Chinese cuisine by going back to its roots

GEORGE TOWN, Sep 6 — Root House by gēn opened this year inside the newly restored 1926 Heritage Hotel on Jalan Burma, the latest restaurant from chef Johnson Wong following gēn and Communal Table by gēn. The recipient of the Michelin Guide Kuala Lumpur and Penang 2024 Young Chef Award, Wong built his name by spotlighting Penang produce at his fine-dining flagship, gēn. Root House takes the same produce and explores it through a distinctly Malaysian-Chinese lens, spread across the dialect groups...

Malay Mail • 3rd September 2026

Swee Xiang Restaurant, Klang: This ‘hong bak’ is king in ‘bak kut teh’ country

KLANG, Sept 3 — My friend and colleague Keertan, who has the biggest collection of colourful shirts in the office, recently graduated with a Master of Public Policy degree. It was a moment of celebration not just for him, but for me too, as it had been the main thing putting off our long-overdue makan appointment. It was one that I was determined to make him keep, as he’s the only person I know willing to make the 30-plus minute trip to Klang on a weekday for lunch with me. Which is why, on a rec...

Malay Mail • 30th August 2026

Jason Yeoh on two decades in Malaysian food TV, why he’s not afraid of losing tradition and his new series, ‘Axian’s Local Eats’

KUALA LUMPUR, Aug 30 — Long before the age of content creators, AI-generated scripts and “influencer voice,” there was the food television boom. The turn of the century was the golden age of food and travel programming on TV: Andrew Zimmern, Bobby Chinn and David Rocco took viewers to the far reaches of the globe — though I always got a tickle watching them exoticise food from our part of the world — and then, of course, there was the man himself: the very face of food and travel TV, often imita...

Malay Mail • 28th August 2026

Kedai Makanan Soon Kee: Shark ‘lips’ and one fearless ‘si tau po’ in Segambut

KUALA LUMPUR, Aug 27 — “Is this the right place?” my girlfriend asked. “I don’t know. My dad said to look for a bunch of car workshops, and I assume these are the workshops we’re looking for.” I replied, painfully aware that this end of Segambut is practically made up exclusively of car workshops. Ever since my father’s office moved to Jalan Ipoh a few months ago, he’s become our household’s de facto guide for the best food around Jalan Ipoh and Segambut. We were following up on a tip from him...

Malay Mail • 23rd August 2026

Chef Andy Choy on his culinary journey, building a restaurant empire and his upcoming fine dining restaurant Villa A.C. in Kuala Lumpur

PETALING JAYA, Aug 23 — There’s no other way to say it: chef Andy Choy is building an empire. In the last two months, he’s either revamped or opened four new brands. June saw the arrival of Mala Bistronome, a fusion malatang spot in TTDI born out of Zaataru, the short-lived collaboration with Ameer Alzalek (Leen’s, S.A.J. Bistronomy) and Joel Kirk. In July, his hospitality group Cendul debuted Fleur Bakehouse, a Peranakan-inspired viennoiserie on the ground floor of Menara Access World in Seksyen 1...

Malay Mail • 20th August 2026

How to actually pair wine with Malaysian food

KUALA LUMPUR, Aug 20 — As a country, Malaysia is what you would call a “dry culture”. It has nothing to do with rainfall or water supply, but everything to do with alcohol. In a wet culture, drinking is routine, woven into daily meals — a pint at a pub lunch in the UK, a glass of wine with dinner in France. In a dry one, it gets pushed to the edges: weekend parties, big celebrations, the after-work beer, the occasional brandy binge at a wedding. Wine has come a long way here since the days of Jac...

Malay Mail • 16th August 2026

Tsukishima Monja Koboreya, Bukit Bintang: KL gets its first taste of Tokyo’s ‘monjayaki’

KUALA LUMPUR, Aug 16 — The phrase “ugly delicious” gets thrown around a lot to describe dishes from our part of the world. It’s meant as a self-aware compliment: this won’t look good on Instagram, but it’s tasty. It’s real. Authentic. And yet, it’s never sat right with me. Why are some dishes — sometimes entire cuisines — deemed “ugly,” and others not? More pressingly: why do “our” dishes make up so much of that first category? Any wannabe food stylist can turn a charcuterie board or a pasta tray...

Malay Mail • 14th August 2026

Asia Curry Noodle Cafe, Ara Damansara: Come for the curry ‘mee’, stay for the coconut shell-roasted pork

PETALING JAYA, Aug 14 — My unceasing, all-consuming love affair with curry mee is well documented: I eat it, and write about it with the same undiminished joy. And if the many bowls I’ve slurped down have taught me anything — some good, some great, some a crime against curry mee — it’s that good curry mee can come from anywhere. Sometimes it’s from a place you least expect. When I visited Tian MiMi Secret in Ara Damansara earlier this year, I drove past Asia Curry Noodle Cafe on my way out. The pro...

Malay Mail • 9th August 2026

After Leen’s and S.A.J. Bistronomy, chef Ameer Alzalek ventures into ‘shawarma’ with Bab Shawarma and Grill in TTDI

KUALA LUMPUR, Aug 9 — When chef and restaurateur Ameer Alzalek started Leen’s, he was selling hummus and traditional Syrian dishes at pop-ups and for home delivery during the pandemic. A dedicated following formed, and by the end of 2022, Leen’s had a brick-and-mortar home in TTDI. A year later, S.A.J. Bistronomy, its sister restaurant, opened basically next door. Then, in 2024, Leen’s was awarded a Bib Gourmand by the Michelin Guide, a recognition it has held onto since. After spending a decade...

Malay Mail • 6th August 2026

Tendon Kohaku: The ‘tendon’ chain bringing satisfying ‘tempura’ rice bowls to TTDI

KUALA LUMPUR, Aug 6 — When I was younger, in my early twenties, my party trick was boring dates with facts like “You know, tempura actually originated with Portuguese Jesuits arriving in Japan”. It was almost always met with a flat “Wow, that’s so interesting.” Occasionally: “What’s a Jesuit?” And now, reader, you find yourself on the receiving end. Peixinhos da horta, a Portuguese dish of battered and deep-fried vegetables – usually green beans – is widely seen as the precursor to Japanese tempur...

Malay Mail • 2nd August 2026

Koha Bistro, Old Klang Road: A Dewakan alum brings restraint and refinement to all-day bistro fare

KUALA LUMPUR, Aug 2 — The profile of a chef has never been bigger than it is today. Food media — us included — are mostly responsible for that, and the trend really took hold in the early 1990s, when television turned the likes of Emeril Lagasse and Bobby Flay, and later Gordon Ramsay, into household names beyond the restaurant world’s own circles. But the social media age has taken that attention further still. As restaurants scramble for new ways to stand out, even chefs well outside the fine...

Malay Mail • 31st July 2026

At De Maw Restaurant in Cheras, the bony ‘ikan terubuk’ is cooked soft enough to eat whole

KUALA LUMPUR, July 31 — The fish arrived at the table. There isn’t much on the plate, just the fish accompanied by a plastic figurine of a man fishing. A server brings bowls of oil, seasoned soy sauce, crispy garlic bits, thin strips of fried ginger, and coriander for garnishing, followed by two wide spoons that she wields like twin axes. After a brief pause to allow me to whip my phone out and hit record like a gormless influencer, she begins cutting into the fish. Crrr-ack. Crisped up by the care...

Malay Mail • 29th July 2026

Two Malaysian bars named in Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2026: Three X Co named the Best Bar in Malaysia at No. 32, while Bar Trigona ranks No. 38

MACAU, July 29 — Last night, two Malaysian bars were named in the 2026 edition of Asia’s 50 Best Bars at a ceremony in the Wynn Palace, Macau. Despite dropping from last year’s No. 15 ranking to No. 32, Three X Co earned the title of Best Bar in Malaysia after Penrose’s surprise drop out of the 50 Best list. Hidden away on the third floor of Bangsar Shopping Centre, the bar has been an integral part of the Klang Valley cocktail bar scene since it was founded in 2017. It first appeared on the Asia...

Malay Mail • 26th July 2026

Fine dining is dead. Long live fine dining

COMMENTARY, July 26 — Last month, I finished the final season of The Bear, the FX drama about fine dining chef Carmy Berzatto who returns home to run his late brother’s sandwich shop. I haven’t been able to stop thinking about it since. For one, it was immensely rewarding to watch Richie Jerimovich — once bitter and broken after the loss of his best friend, Carmy’s brother Michael — evolve into a slick, lovable, foul-mouthed, front-of-house manager who found newfound purpose staging at a three-Mi...

Malay Mail • 23rd July 2026

Duo Dining brings OUG’s seafood pork noodles to Desa Sri Hartamas

KUALA LUMPUR, July 23 — We’ve all had this experience. You’re hanging out with friends, talking about where you like to get your nasi lemak, your char kway teow, and then you hear that dreaded phrase. “Wah, so far? Cannot lah.” I’ll admit, I used to think little of people who consider themselves “foodies” and weren’t willing to drive for food. But I’ve come around to recognise the persuasive powers of the two P’s — parking and petrol. I sympathise now. For years, there’s been one place I haven’t...

Malay Mail • 22nd July 2026

Arthur Chang crowned champion of Malaysia Best Sommelier Championship 2026, sweeps four awards

KUALA LUMPUR, July 22 — Arthur Chang has been crowned champion of the Malaysia Best Sommelier Championship 2026, organised by the Sommelier Association of Malaysia (SOMLAY) at St Giles Mid Valley from July 17 to 19. Speaking to Malay Mail moments after the announcement, Chang said relief was the first thing he felt. “I finally started to breathe again. I was just holding my breath the entire time,” he said, adding that the competition was far from easy. “It’s given us a lot to think about in term...

Malay Mail • 19th July 2026

In Bukit Ceylon, KL, find Venezuelan ‘arepas’ and single-origin artisanal chocolate at Miss Coco Cafe

KUALA LUMPUR, July 19 — One of the things I look back on most fondly from my time in the US was meeting people from all over the world, and one who stood out for me was a young Colombian student named Juan. He was in the same freshman class as me, which meant we spent a lot of time together during orientation activities. He was never seen without his bright blue headphones, and whenever I think of New York now, I think of his surprisingly deep voice pronouncing “York” with a “J” in place of the “Y...

Malay Mail • 17th July 2026

Steak, duck ‘confit’ and pork chops in a retro-themed Chinese ‘social club’: Soon Heng Social Club in Taman United delivers substance in style

KUALA LUMPUR, July 17 — What comes to mind when one thinks of Taman United? The horrific peak-hour traffic on Old Klang Road perhaps? Better yet, what comes to mind when one hears of a “social club” in Taman United? Whatever it is, it probably isn’t anything like Soon Heng Social Club. Located above a tea shop, the restaurant can only really be spotted at night, when its neon sign comes out to play. The hawk-eyed may also notice Soon Heng’s vintage sign above the stairway — acquired from an antique...

Malay Mail • 12th July 2026

The Home Cooking Dishes, Sungai Way: Known for ‘tor dei char siew’ and poached ‘kampung’ chicken, but the roast pork steals the show

PETALING JAYA, July 12 — As a self-professed bak zaam gai (white cut chicken) fanatic, I’m often sent recommendations by friends and peers eager for my verdict on their local spots.Truth be told, not all of them pan out. But such is my enjoyment of the dish – I’ve been described as an iPad kid, but with the tablet swapped for white cut chicken – that even a halfway decent version can salvage an entire meal if the rest of the dishes fall short.Thankfully, that wasn’t the case at The Home Cooking...

Malay Mail • 9th July 2026

Looking for your ‘ikan bakar’ fix? Head to Restoran Shin Lin Kee in PJ New Town

PETALING JAYA, July 9 — As a kid, my parents often encouraged me – in their own heavy-handed way – to try a wide variety of food.Some things were love at first sight: sambal belacan, roti bom, foie gras. Others, like abalone, baked beans, and durian... not so much.I remember slurping down my first snail with real joy. I also remember my first oyster slinking its way down my throat. I dreaded the oyster forever after.Naturally, I held a grudge.But my parents had a rule they practically beat into...

Malay Mail • 5th July 2026

Wawafish: A Guizhou-flavoured gem in KL's Petaling Street

KUALA LUMPUR, July 5 — Petaling Street has no shortage of “vibey” bars and restaurants, where tourists come in droves and atmosphere, aesthetic and alcohol tend to take precedence over culinary excellence. Collectively, these outlets engineer the feeling — no matter how fleeting — that you, too, belong to the trendy, hip crowd, provided you can get with the vibe. But that doesn’t mean there’s no good eating to be done around these parts. Street food remains a dependable option in some pockets, b...

Malay Mail • 3rd July 2026

Bacio, Mont Kiara: ‘Vitello tonnato’, ‘spaghetti aglio e olio’ and a lesson in true Italian hospitality

KUALA LUMPUR, July 3 — Italian restaurants, by virtue of the cuisine’s unceasing universal appeal, are a dime a dozen in Kuala Lumpur. But the actual variety of dishes on offer remains limited to the specific brand of Italian cooking that’s proved popular with Malaysians: safe, uninspired pasta and pizza. And although we have finally started coming around to Neapolitan pizza in the last few years, our reluctance as diners to expand our palates beyond what our TikTok and Instagram algorithms tell...